Raw spectral energy for our buoys for swell 19, Feb 10-11 2002

San Francisco spectrum
SF Buoy

SE Papa buoy spectrum
SE Papa Buoy

What the swell looked like at creation
SE Papa Buoy

This was a 12-18 hour storm with nice shape and fetch. It came in as the Ocean Beach swell of the year at 8-9 ft 17 seconds on a Sunday from 270 degrees. Like other big 270 degree swells, longshore currents running to the north were insane, and the paddle was rough. It also came in with stiff offshore winds and THICK, PITCHING LIPS. This was the swell people talked about for months. Monday was still close to double overhead, with 14 second period energy, which felt kinda weak in comparison to Sunday's juice. As a 270 degree swell, it didn't really come 'through' the SE Papa to get to us, and the California buoy was down.