Raw spectral energy for our buoys for swell 7, Oct 13-15 2001

San Francisco spectrum
SF Buoy

California Buoy spectrum
California Buoy

SE Papa buoy spectrum
SE Papa Buoy

What the swell looked like at creation
SE Papa Buoy

This swell was a 290 degree swell on the dateline, south of the tail of the Aleutians. It was intense at 960 mBar for about 12 hours without great fetch. The winds indicated a very narrow region of 50-60 knot winds. Swell hit with 25 and 20 second energy at 6-8 foot. Swells were sparse, and the paddle was VERY easy, even in the middle of the beach. Sets bombed in on Sunday Oct 14th at double overhead 15 ft faces - totally macking.